How to Cut an A‐Line Bob

Deciding on Length

Keep the length variation 1 inch (2.5 cm) or less for straight hair. Straight hair or lightly wavy hair makes it easy to see the difference in length between the back and the front. Starting out at 1 inch (2.5 cm) or less gives you the effect you want without it being too dramatic. You can always go back in and add a bigger difference in length later.

Aim for more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length variation for curly hair. If the hair is very wavy, curly, or textured, you'll need a more dramatic change in length to be able to see the effect. Therefore, try for a difference of more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length between the back and front. How much difference greatly depends on how curly the hair is. For instance, if the hair is very curly, you might go for 2 inches (5.1 cm) or a bit more. If it's mostly wavy, 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) might be fine.

Go shorter overall if you want to avoid getting it cut again quickly. If you want to go longer between cuts, then aim for a shorter cut that goes to the nape of the neck in back. In front, it should just hit the chin. That way, it can grow out a few inches and still look good. However, keep in mind that curly hair can scrunch up shorter when it dries.

Cutting the Back

Divide damp hair into 3 sections with 1 at the back and 1 on each side. Part the hair on top as the person normally wears it. Create another part with a comb starting at the top of the head near the back on one side. Make a line straight down the head with a corner of the comb, ending behind the ear. Use a clip or hair tie to hold the side section in place. Do the same on the other side, clipping the side section of the hair in place. Clip the hair up in back, so you can see the back of the neck. You may need to twist it and clip it up against your head.

Unclip the hair in back and make a horizontal part at the bottom. Lift the hair so you can see underneath it. About 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) up from the bottom of the hairline, use your comb to make a horizontal part across the head. Be careful to get this line as straight and even as possible. Pull the rest of the hair back up into the clip.

Cut the hair at the back of the neck, angling up towards the middle. Hold the left side of the hair in your hand, and run the comb down it at an angle until you reach about where you want the back of the hair to be cut. The angle should go up toward the middle of the neck. Cut along the comb with barber shears, angling down as you move away from the middle of the neck. Keep in mind that this is only part of your angle down the whole head, so if you're trying to mostly keep the cut under 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length variation, don't make this angle too steep. Do the same down the other side, angling down from the middle to the outside.

Even up the cut. Press the hair against the back of the neck so you can see what needs to be trimmed. As you press, certain pieces will look longer. Cut off any bits that are too long with your scissors, being careful not to catch the person's neck. This technique helps you see better where the cut is uneven.

Fluff the hair back up so it lays naturally and cut any excess off. Use your fingers to fluff the hair. This layer should be mostly dry now, and it should lay as it normally does. Cut off any bits that don't fall in line with the angle. Comb it out, as well, so you see any stragglers that are too long.

Bring down another section of hair in the back. The next section should be another 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm). Make a horizontal part across the hair. Bring the section down out of the clips, and let it fall down over what you just cut. Make sure any part you make is straight and even. You can also part the hair down the middle all the way back, and gradually pull more and more from the sides instead of parting it in 3 sections.

Use the bottom layer as a guideline to cut the next section. Trim the top layer you just added until it's even with the bottom layer. Angle your hand to help guide the cut you're making. Trim the cut on both sides, angling down like you did before.

Finish the back of the hair by cutting it section by section. Keep bringing down sections of hair. Each time, use the hair below and your hand as a guide to cut the hair, angling as it moves out towards the sides.

Cutting the Sides

Bring down the hair on one side. Take all of the hair down on one side so you can cut it from back to front. Comb it out so you can see it well. Only do one side at a time. If the hair is very thick, you can do it in sections by taking part of the hair out of the clip and creating an angled part from the top of the head towards the front. Clip the remaining hair back up, and comb out what's below.

Cut the very front to the length you want it to be. You're going to angle from the back to the length you want in front. Therefore, it's easiest if you know what you're aiming for. Snip off the hair at the very front to the final length it's going to be. Make sure the length you cut in the front is longer than what you cut in the back. If you don't think you can do that, you can simply angle the cut from the back to the front in the next step.

Use your comb and hand to guide the angle of the cut. Comb through the hair several times, then use your fingers to create an angle from the back to the front. Make a line from where you trimmed the hair in the back to where you trimmed it in the front. Cut along that line to create the angled cut. Use your comb as a straight edge to guide the line.

Exam the angle. Comb the hair thoroughly to make sure it is absolutely falling straight from top to bottom. Check the line to make sure it angles from back to front with all the hair aligned. Trim up any areas where the angle doesn't connect properly. Make sure the very front is your longest point. Also, be sure to cut any stragglers that are too long.

Repeat on the other side. Once you've finished up one side, move to the other side and repeat the process. Make sure both sides match by looking at the hair from the front and evening up the length. Pull the hair down with your fingers while looking at the person from the front. Make sure they are facing forward with their head straight. Otherwise, the cut won't be even.

Blow dry the hair and do the final check. While blow drying the hair, lift it up in sections with a round brush. Blow dry each section until dry, then move on the next section. Use the round brush to shape the hair as you dry it. Check for any pieces that are sticking out too long, and trim them off.

Add texture and lighten up the haircut by section to finish the hair cut. Take a vertical section in your hand, and pull it out to the side at a 45-degree angle from the head. Hold up the end of the hair, and point cut it by snipping your scissors along the very ends of the hair. Repeat this technique all around the hair, and voila! You've created an a-line bob.